
Richard
Goldstone skillfully brakes after a fast
descent from Cloudveil Dome
photo PG

Richard at
Devils
Lake photo:PG

Richard at the
Gunks, recently, doing City Lights
RICHARD
GOLDSTONE Richard was part
of the "second wave" of climbers joining the
UCMC. He and Stephen Derenzo became almost weekly participants at the
Devils Lake cliffs. Richard soon developed his own style of climbing: a
smooth, well thought-out, one-limb-at-a-time precision assault. I don't
recall Richard ever taking a fall or making a desperate or ill-planned
move. He went on, of course, to become one of the finest rockclimbers
in the United States.
The following
comment is from the Master of Rock, John Gill, taken (with permission)
from
his website: www.johngill.net
Rich Goldstone : (Richard Goldstone) This
photo was taken in the mid 1960s on some rocks off the road to Bear
Lake in Rocky Mountain NP. I first met Rich at the Jenny Lake boulders
in 1961, when he was about 17. He became very interested in bouldering
and in gymnastic-inspired training techniques for bouldering and rock
climbing. Rich became adept at rope climbing and improved the carryover
to rock by occasionally climbing very thin cords, rather than the
traditional 1.5” diameter. When climbing traditional rope he would
never focus on speed, but climbed slowly, taking maximum reaches with
one hand at a time. He was also one of the first climbers to use
surgical rubber tubing for learning various strength tricks, referring
to the tubing as an FFD (you’ll have to ask Rich!).
He quickly became an exceptional boulderer and one of the most
graceful rock climbers I've known. We spent many hours in the 1960s
bouldering together in the Tetons and Black Hills, pulling torn flesh
off our fingers and using vast quantities of chalk and tape! We also
climbed together at Dixon Springs, where Rich challenged the existing
standards (even at temperatures of 5 degrees F). Back east, he became a
legend in the Gunks, climbing many difficult routes, including the FA
of the thin face climb, Farewell to Fingers(5.11) in 1970. Rich climbed
widely, and made notable FAs in the Needles of the Black Hills,
including the first free ascent of the famous and intimidating Needle's
Eye Spire.
Dr. Goldstone is a mathematician, and teaches at Manhattan
College in New York State. (When he and I and R. F. Williams got
together on the rocks it was to answer the question: how many
mathematicians does it take to solve a boulder problem? Three,
apparently.) Rich was one of the best boulderers of his generation, and
a wonderfully witty and skilled climbing companion!
Richard and I
climbed a variety of routes together in
the Grand tetons in the early 60's. I recall these in particular:
Complete Exum
Ridge of the Grand Teton; Red Sentinel (Richard led the crux pitch);
Gray Slab route on Disappointment Peak (first ascent); E.
Hourglass Ridge of Nez Perce (first ascent); direct Jensen Ridge on
Symmetry
Spire; N. face of Cloudveil Dome.
Richard earned a B.A. in Mathematics from NYU, and a Ph.D. in Mathematics from City University of NY. He is currently a Professor of Mathematics and Computer Science at Manhattan College.
In
his own words:
Richard Goldstone
I started climbing while
a high school student in 1957. My
first climb was the Owen-Spaulding route on the Grand, guided by none
other
than Glenn Exum himself. Two more
guided climbs were followed by a number of hair-raising adventures in
the
Tetons with similarly inexperienced acquaintances and a lot of
scrambling in
RMNP. Although one of the Teton guided
climbs was the SW Ridge of Symmetry Spire, I didn't do much
rock-climbing above
easy fifth class until I arrived at UC in 1961, fell in with Steve
Derenzo and
Peter Gardiner, and started going to Devil's Lake.
I think that we, together with Bob Williams, managed Western
trips every summer while I was at UC, mostly to the Tetons, but we also
did
some climbing in the Needles in S.D. During these trips and ones that
followed,
I spent a lot of time bouldering with John Gill, who had just left UC
with a Masters
in Meteorology when I arrived there.
After UC I move back to
NYC and "joined" the
Vulgarian Mountain Club. Many climbs in the Shawangunks, Whitehorse and
Cathedral Ledges, Cannon Mountain, the Tetons, Wind Rivers, Devil's
Tower, S.D.
Needles, Eldorado and Boulder Canyons, RMNP, Bugaboos, Yosemite,
Tahquitz, and
Red Rocks, to mention the most well-know areas, followed.
Although the intensity of my involvement has
varied over the years, no year went by when I didn't do some climbing,
and
recently, with my daughter off to college, I've been more active again.
I
married my wife Mara in 1983, and in 1987 we had a
daughter, Sarah, who is now a freshman at Boston University. After seven years as a high-school
mathematics teacher at the Fieldston School in Riverdale, NY, I went to
the
CUNY Graduate School and earned a Ph.D. in mathematics under the
supervision of
Eldon Dyer. Jobs at Bard and Marist
Colleges followed before I settled at Manahttan College in Riverdale, a
block
or two away from Fieldston where my teaching career had begun.